Places Associated with the Orkney Jarldom

Kirkwall – the capital of Orkney derives its name from Kirkjuvagr (church bay) after the church erected by Jarl Rognvald Brusison to the memory of his friend King Olaf Haraldson, patron saint of Norway. Kirkwall was already a market town of some significance in 1486, eighteen years after Orkney was annexed to Scotland, being pledged from 50,000 florins by King Christian I of Norway as part of the dowry of 60,000 florins when his daughter married James III of Scotland.

St. Magnus Cathedral was started in 1137 by Jarl Rognvald Kil’sson in honour of his uncle Jarl Magnus who was martyred in the church of Egilsay on 16^th April, 1116 by his cousin Jarl Hakon. The main part of the Cathedral was completed in 1158 but a number of additions were made to it during the next four centuries, the 33foot tower having been built in 1525. The building which is 218 ft. long and 45 ft. wide houses the relics of St. Magnus and Jarl Rognvald, who was himself canonized

Birsay – is situated 10 miles northwest of Evie past Costa Head, the windiest place in Great Britain, on the bay of the same name. Here on the Brough of Birsay, a tidal island, was the hall of Jarl Thorfinn and the cathedral church of Orkney before St. Magnus Cathedral was built. It was here that St Magnus’ body was first buried before being moved to its present resting place. Lying along the slope of the hill are a number of Viking longhouses. The ruined Palace of Birsay was rebuilt late in the 16^th century by Earl Robert Stewart, illegitimate son of James V of Scotland.

Egilsay – a small island off the east coast of Rousay, is mainly notable as the site of the martyrdom of St. Magnus by his cousin Jarl Hakon. The 12^th century church with its lofty round tower forms a conspicuous landmark. The church is reputed to be the actual church in which Jarl Magnus spent the night in prayer before he was murdered on 16^th April, lll6.

Gairsay – was the island home of Sweyn Asleif’s son, grandfather of Gunni, the name-father of the Clan Gunn. It was from this island that Sweyn carried out his Vikings described in the Okneyinga Saga. Langskaill House, which is said to have been built on the site of Sweyn’s longhall is an excellent example of a 17^th century fortified house. It was built by Sir William Craigie of Gairsay who died in 1712.

Orphir – Sweyn Asleif’s son killed his namesake Sweyn Breastrope at the Jarl’s drinking hall here in 1135 after which he fled to Tiree for the winter. The round church was built by Jarl Hakon who killed Jarl Magnus having sought absolution in Rome and thence traveled in penitence to the Holy Land. The church is said to have been modeled on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

Stromness – Hamnavoe to our Norse ancestors, is a sheltered port at the eastern end of the Mainland of Orkney. This little town with its picturesque houses and jetties is of fairly modern origin as a town. It developed during the 18^th and 19^th centuries as a port of call for Atlantic shipping.

Clan Gunn Sites in Caithness and Sutherland

Ackergill – St. Tayre’s Chapel at Ackergill was the site of the attempted reconciliation of the Clan Gunn and the Clan Keith in1468 or 1478. The chapel which was situated on the coast roughly equidistant from Ackergill Tower and Girnigoe Castle was said to have been pulled down about 1800. Nothing now remains. Others claim that the reconciliation meeting took place at Strathmore, in the interior of the County.

Dirlot – formerly a small keep, built about 1350 by Ronald Cheyne as a hunting Lodge. Later it passed to the Sutherlands and then to the Mackays but reputed at one time to have been occupied by the Gunns. Henry Gunn, one of the surviving sons of Crowner Gunn is said to have revenged his father’s death here by killing with an arrow the Keith chieftain who was celebrating his victory. Close by is a small graveyard which was the principal burial place of the Gunns of Cattaig and the Gunns in Dalnaglaton.

Dalemore – within a mile of Dirlot is the old farm house of Dalemore which was the home of Marcus Gunn the chieftain of the Gunns of Cattaig in the 18^th century. The farm is still occupied by Gunns continuing 500 years of intermittent Gunn possession.

Freswick – the Caithness estate of Sweyn Aslief’s son. His castle of Lambaborg is thought to have been on Ness Head, south of the present fortified House of Freswick, built by Sinclair of Freswick in the 17^th century.

Girnigoe and Castle Sinclair – were the principal seats of the Earls of Caithness. Girnigoe whose spectacular ruin stands north of the county town of Wick was erected between 1476 and 1496 by William, Earl of Caithness. Castle Sinclair which was built adjacent in 1606 is also in a ruinous condition having been attacked and partially destroyed by the rightful heir to the Earldom when it was in the possession of Lord Glenorchy who had bought the Earldom from the previous Earls of Caithness. In 1586 John Gunn, the Chief of the Gunns of Braemore was hanged at the castle by the then Earl of Caithness in revenge for the defeat of the Caithness men at Altgown by Clan Gunn. In 1612 William Angus Rory Gunn escaped from the castle by jumping into the sea.

Halberry – Halberry Castle was built by the Gunn chiefs in the latter part of the 13^th century as their principal stronghold to replace Castle Gunn. It was formerly protected by a ditch 150 ft long and 9-12 ft deep with a drawbridge a guard houses. The Crowner lived here in some splendour until his death at St. Tayre’s after which the castle was abandoned. Nearby is the Hill of Mannistanes, a Bronze Age stone alignment dating from about 1500 BC. It was also the site of a battle between the Gunns and the Keiths in 1460.

Helmsdale – a village at the mouth of the River Helmsdale which was created by the Countess-Duchess of Sutherland to house those cleared from the interior of the County of Sutherland at the beginning of the 19^th century.

Kildonan – named after St. Donan who established his monastery at Suisgill; in the middle of the glen was the home of the Mchamish Gunns from the 15^th century up to the Clearances in 1819. The original church of Kildonan probably dated from about 1100 and contained the mortuary chapel of the Gunn chiefs at its western end. This was replaced by the present church built in 1788. Down the river from the church is Killearnan the seat of the McHamish Gunns for over 200 years until it was destroyed by fire in 1690. Nothing remains of the original house.

Kinbrace – at the top of Kildonan is said to have been named after the Crowner’s brooch. The Crowner is reputed to have had a fortress north west of the township where he spent the summer. An important cadet family had a wadset of the mill at Kinbrace for many generations.

Navidale – on the coast of Sutherland north of Helmsdale is the township of Navidale which was held by several generations of the McHamish chiefs.

Sandside – the site of a skirmish between the Mackays and the Gunns in 1437, in which the latter were out-numbered, and defeated. In 1615 the corn fields at Sandside were burnt by John Robson, chieftain of the Clan Gunn in Caithness at the instigation of the Earl of Caithness who had a vendetta with Lord Forbes who then owned the Sandside estate.

Spittal – on the slopes of Spittal Hill below the Mybster-Georgemas road are the remains of St. Magnus Chapel, which probably dates from the 12^th century. This was the most ancient burial place of the Gunn chiefs who were carried over the hills from Kildonan fro burial after the chiefly line moved to Sutherland. The burial ground was used until the early part of this century. Further up the hill was held the annual Jamesmas Fair which provided local farm servants with an opportunity of changing their employment.

Tannach – the site of a battle between the Gunns and the Keiths and Mackays in 1438. The Gunns withdrew, some moving to Braemore and others to Kildonan.

Thurso – Snaekol Gunni’s son killed Jarl John here in 1231. Thurso East the home of Viscount Thurso of Ulbster was formerly a seat of the Earls of Caithness, Chiefs of Clan Sinclair.

Ulbster – associated with the Gunns from a very early date. After the Battle of St. Tayre’s it passed to the Keiths, then to the Oliphants, and in 1606 to the Earl of Caithness. It was subsequently acquired by a cadet Sinclair family of whom Lord Thurso is the present head.

Westerdale – has a long association with the Clan Gunn and with the Hendersons, an important sept of the Clan. The later chiefs of the Cattaig family resided at Dale House, which is close by.

Westgarty – on the east cost of Sutherland south of Helmsdale was the birthplace of Sir William Gunn who made his name fighting as a soldier of fortune on the Continent firs in the Swedish Service and then for the Holy Roman Emperor. He fought for King Charles I at Bridge of Dee who knighted him in 1639.

Published by the Clan Gunn Heritage Trust, Clan Gunn Heritage Centre, Latheron, Caithness